Welcome to the Bernie Brown Collections Skincare Ingredient Glossary—your go-to guide for understanding every active, botanical, and breakthrough compound we use.

Explore each entry to learn where it comes from, why it matters, and how it works to hydrate, brighten, protect, and renew your skin. Whether you’re a beauty beginner or a ingredient-obsessed pro, unlock the science and benefits behind every formula.

The Bernie Brown Collections' Standard for Ingredient Transparency for Professionals

This glossary outlines key active and functional ingredients used across our formulations. Each entry includes:

  • INCI name (per EU Regulation No. 1223/2009)
  • Primary cosmetic function
  • Origin (plant-based / synthetic / biotech)
  • Usage concentration (typical range)
  • Safety + regulatory notes
  • Links to extended use guides or FAQs

Understanding and selecting effective ingredients in skincare routines is crucial for achieving optimal results.

A

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Soothing agent, humectant

  • Origin: Organic plant extract
  • Usage: 5–20%
  • Notes: Certified organic available. Supports hydration and post-treatment recovery. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is excellent for sensitive skin and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Allantoin

Skin protectant, keratolytic  

  • Origin: Biotech-derived  
  • Usage: 0.2–0.5%  
  • Notes: Listed as OTC skin protectant (EU + FDA). Excellent for sensitive or compromised skin.

B

Bakuchiol

Retinol alternative, anti-aging

  • Origin: Plant-based (Psoralea corylifolia)
  • Usage: 0.5–1%
  • Notes: Clinically backed. Requires formulation stability support. Bakuchiol also supports collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin firmness and reducing signs of aging.

Betaine 

Osmoprotectant, moisturizer  

  • Origin: Sugar beet fermentation  
  • Usage: 1–5%  
  • Notes: Excellent for barrier repair and hydration balance.

C

Centella Asiatica Extract

Wound healing, anti-inflammatory

  • Origin: CO2 or water extract
  • Usage: 0.5–2%
  • Notes: High in asiaticoside. Calms irritated skin. Effective in treating eczema due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

Coco-Glucoside  

Non-ionic surfactant  

  • Origin: Coconut + glucose  
  • Usage: 3–10%  
  • Notes: Ultra-mild. Baby care-safe. Biodegradable.

D

D-Panthenol (Provitamin B5)

Moisturizer, skin barrier support

  • Origin: Biotech
  • Usage: 1–5%
  • Notes: Supports barrier and hydration post-acid use. D-Panthenol also reduces irritation and redness, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

E

Ectoin

Anti-pollution, stress protection

  • Origin: Fermented from extremophile bacteria
  • Usage: 0.5–2%
  • Notes: Shields skin from oxidative and environmental stress. Ectoin also helps protect against sun damage, contributing to overall skin health.

G

Glycerin (Vegetable origin)

Humectant, stabilizer  

  • Origin: Plant-based  
  • Usage: 2–10%  
  • Notes: EU-compliant. Supports hydration and preservation.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

  • Origin: Water or ethanol extracted
  • Usage: 0.1–3%
  • Notes: Rich in EGCG. Supports calming and firming. Acts as a protective antioxidant, helping to combat free radical damage.

H

Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)  

Hydrator, plumper

  • Origin: Fermentation-derived
  • Usage: 0.01–1%
  • Notes: Multi-weight complex preferred. Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) also improves skin texture by enhancing hydration and plumping the skin.

J

Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis)

Emollient, lipid balancer

  • Origin: Cold-pressed
  • Usage: 3–10%
  • Notes: Mimics sebum. Excellent for oily or acne-prone skin. Jojoba Oil also supports collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin elasticity and overall appearance.

L

Lactic Acid  

AHA exfoliant, brightener

  • Origin: Plant fermentation
  • Usage: 1–10%
  • Notes: Requires pH balancing. Brightens and renews. Promotes cell turnover, leading to improved skin texture and reduced signs of aging.

N

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Barrier booster, tone corrector

  • Origin: Synthetic
  • Usage: 2–10%
  • Notes: Well-tolerated. Pair with zinc for acne-prone skin. Niacinamide also minimizes pores, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation.

R

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rosehip)  

Emollient, antioxidant

  • Origin: Cold-pressed
  • Usage: 3–8%
  • Notes: Supports scar repair and tone. Sensitive to oxidation. Additionally, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rosehip) is effective in treating dark spots and improving skin tone.

S

Squalane (Plant-based)

Emollient, lipid restorer

  • Origin: Sugarcane or olive
  • Usage: 1–10%
  • Notes: Non-comedogenic. Silky skin feel. Squalane mimics the skin's natural oils, enhancing hydration and improving the skin's appearance.

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii)  

Occlusive, nourishing  

  • Origin: Raw/refined butter  
  • Usage: 3–15%  
  • Notes: Strengthens emulsions. Deep nourishment for dry skin.

T

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Antioxidant, preservative booster

  • Origin: Sunflower
  • Usage: 0.1–1%
  • Notes: Stabilizes oils. Improves skin elasticity. Tocopherol (Vitamin E) also helps combat fine lines and wrinkles by improving skin elasticity.

Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca Alternifolia)  

Antimicrobial  

  • Origin: Steam-distilled  
  • Usage: <1%  
  • Notes: Use with caution. Check regional allergen limits.

Z

Zinc PCA  

Sebum regulator, antimicrobial  

  • Origin: Zinc salt of PCA  
  • Usage: 0.1–1%  
  • Notes: Ideal for blemish-prone skin. Balances without drying.

⚠️ Ingredient Safety & Labeling

All formulations comply with:  

  • EU Regulation 1223/2009  
  • US FDA cosmetic labeling  
  • IFRA fragrance allergen limits